Sash windows have been common for many years, and only in the last forty years have vinyl or wood windows with spring scales become common. Sheet weight windows generally have single pane glass which makes them highly inefficient against heat loss as well. Years of operation have caused wear on the wooden tracks and the blade itself, causing even more air leakage.
Start by carefully removing the interior window trim if they are to be reused later. Carefully removing the trim from the finishing nails and then removing the nails helps prevent damage to the trimming surfaces of hammers and pry bars. Never pry directly against the edge itself. If you must pry off the cutout face, place a piece of wood under the hammer's claw or pry bar to avoid direct pressure on the wood. If new trims are to be installed, simply dispose of the old ones unless they can be recycled elsewhere in the home or perhaps Bespoke Metal Work London.
Once all the trimmings have been removed, look carefully into the window slot at the bottom with the sash in the up position. You will see on either side of the window a small door recessed into the track groove, held in place with two large slotted screws. The screws may be hidden by years of paint, but careful scraping will reveal a notch where the screws are countersunk. Carefully remove the screws, and then gently pull out the piece of the wooden door on each side. Hold the inner sash firmly and pull to the side to remove the sash from the window frame. There will be a rope on either side of the window connected to the top of the sash, as well as an iron weight hidden behind the window track. Carefully and with a firm grip on both the window frame and window sash, twist the knot at the top of the window. The window will be released. I repeat that I firmly grasp the leaf cord. The weight is much heavier than you think, and you'll want to crash into the window pocket if it comes loose. Slowly lift the sash cord until the knot contacts the recessed pulley at the top of the window.
Repeat the process for the opposite side. Set the sash aside making sure you know which is the top and bottom sash. Place a block of wood in the opening of the track and cut the knot on the card. The block will help catch the weight of the blade and allow you to take it out of your pocket. Remove the pulleys. Pulleys and weights will no longer be used.
Next, you will see what is called a parting bead, which is a small trim piece about 1/2 inch by 3/4 inch in size partially buried in the window casing. Separate the two belts. I recommend replacing them and you will find that they are very difficult to remove without chipping. If you are repairing the window and are not installing new side tracks, you should replace the separation beads. The top sheet and weight removal are the same as the bottom ones. Be sure to open the blade pockets at the bottom of the blade's top rails as well to allow for the removal of blade weight. With the blade, weights, nails, and pulleys removed, clean off all loose paint from the remaining surfaces, and if you're sure it's not lead paint, you can do some sanding, too.
Your options here vary depending on how you are going to repair the windows. Using loose fiberglass insulation or non-expandable foam sealant (do not use expansive type foam. It will bend the window frame and ruin it) fill all the gaps left in the sheet weight pockets. Push the insulation down into the opening and up as high as you can. Buy a set of vinyl or metal side window rails appropriate for your window size. Carefully measure the length and note that the ends are tapered at an angle and are not square cut. These slanted cuts will coincide with the slant of the threshold. Slide a track into place and check the proper fit. Hold it securely following the manufacturer's instructions.
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